Ultimate Guide To Labelling, Numbering & Signing Fine Art Prints

Ultimate GuideTo Labelling, Numbering & Signing Fine Art Prints

Signing & Labeling You're Fine Art Prints

At the point when the printmaker signs and numbers a progression of prints, which are several reproductions of some structure from a solitary design, they are ensuring that each print made is similar to the rest in quality and that lone that number that shows up on the print is the main in presence. Before signing and numbering, the printmaker needs to experience the edition and devastate the prints that have anomalies.

The standard is to sign the print at the base right-hand corner beneath the impression, the edition number on the base left-hand corner and the title, assuming any, in the inside. If your print reaches out to the edge of the paper and doesn't take into consideration a signature, you utilize a similar standard however in the rear of the print, or the verso. This is constantly finished with a sharp pencil to maintain a strategic distance from extortion. It's a lot simpler to print an ink signature than a pencil. I suggest utilizing a sharp 2H pencil in every case as opposed to an ordinary #2 pencil. Make a blemish on a bit of paper utilizing a #2 pencil and rub your finger over it and attempt the equivalent with a 2H pencil and you will perceive any reason why.

Types of Fine Art Prints:

An 'edition' of a print is a limited arrangement of indistinguishable prints produced using a similar plate. Editioned prints must be indistinguishable. If there is a disparity in quality, ink color or even the paper is changed these prints ought not to be viewed as a component of the edition. Editions are marked with the specific print number then a cut (/) then the number of absolute prints in the edition.


2/15 - A print number 2 from an aggregate of 15 indistinguishable prints.

55/105 - A print number 55 from an aggregate of 105 indistinguishable prints.


A/P., P.A., or E.A. (Artist Proof, Prueba de Artista or Epreuve d’artist)

Initially, the artist had the option to haul several prints out with their edition for individual use (for example on the off chance that the edition was being held by an operator). These are regularly printed simultaneously as the edition, are of a similar elevated requirement, and number up to 10% of the edition size. On the off chance that the artist is making an edition for a vendor, the artist can keep a couple of prints for individual use from the edition. These are a piece of the edition and are kept to a similar standard however are marked A/P for Artist Proof, or all the more customarily E.A. which is the French comparable. The standard is to just have 10% of your edition be comprised of these sorts of prints.


P/P, P.I., B.A.T, or E.I.(Printer’s Proof, Prueba de Impresor, Bon a Tirer, or Epreuve d’imprimeur)

The principal ideal print to be pulled from the framework is signed as the B.A.T. (great to pull). The edition and artist's evidence are then coordinated up to this as it is printed. The B.A.T. normally remains the property of the editioning atelier. These prints usually are the property of the gallery that created them.


R.T.P (Ready To Print) These prints are ready to print for consumers.


T/P (Trial Proof) These prints are dismantled to evaluate the advancement of an image. They are set apart as preliminary verifications as they demonstrate the incomplete advancement of an occupation. They can be worth enormous aggregates if they land available as they show an understanding of the artist's working techniques.


S/P ( State Proof) This is the general term covering every single working verification. It can allude all the more explicitly to preliminary verifications being improved after an image has been editioned. This imprint designates the print as a working verification and as being additionally taken a shot at after the edition was made. Some of the time etchings will be assigned this imprint as the printmaker tries different things with a corrosive introduction to the plate making darker lines or varieties in the design.


H/C (Hors Commerce) French for “For Commercial Use”, These prints are not available to be purchased yet are set apart for business/business utilize, for example, show or advancement. They don't need to be signed by the artist.


C/P (Cancellation Print) At the point when the edition has been printed, the plate is destroyed so that it can't be reprinted uniquely. Frequently a print is pulled with an enormous score over the plate and is signed as the crossing out print. After the edition has been printed, a few artists and printmakers change the first plate, square or stone with the goal that it can't be reprinted once more.


M.P or M.T. (Monoprint or Monotype) This alludes to the method of printing a solitary painted image from a silkscreen or nonporous surface, for example, a sheet of glass, metal or styrene. In either case, the print is one of a kind and can't be editioned.


U/P (Unique Print), U/S (Unique State), V/E (Variable Edition) These names all allude to the print being one of a kind or containing one of a kind components that can't be imitated in another pulling. These three names are likely best supplanted with utilizing the basic show 1/1 (edition of 1)

Imp. - From the Latin "impressit" which signifies "has printed". An artist who has printed their work may compose this after their signature.


H.M.P, H.P.M or H.M.M. (Hand Modified Print, Hand Painted Print or Hand Modified Multiple)

Here artists add highlights to a print by hand after the edition is made. These are most usually found in serigraph prints.


E.V. (Edition Varied) Editions made on various papers or printed with an alternate color ink are at times named with this imprint. A few artists and printmakers decide to number these prints with Roman numerals rather than Arabic numerals


I/X - X/X.


Tips To Remember For You're Fine Art Prints

  • Always sign your prints utilizing a pencil not a pen - Sign your name, beginning or monogram on your prints beneath the base edge of the plate on the right-hand side (alongside date whenever wanted)
  • Mark the edition number or print type underneath the base edge of the plate on the left-hand side
  • Add a title whenever wanted in the center between the signature and the edition number. Titles are regularly written in reversed commas
  • 'Title' - If the print is a 'Bleed Print' (the printed territory is bigger than the genuine paper being printed on) utilize similar shows however compose either along the base of the image or along the base edge of the inverted side of the paper.

This isn't the complete guide. Some different stamps and marks are utilized in nations with various guidelines.

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